South to the Gulf

We finally set off from Tranquil Bay (so called) opposite Nidri and sailed gently on Spinnaker most of the way to Kalamos. We took it down as we approached in anticipation of much stronger winds near the mountains - and weren't disappointed. We finally closed Kalamos town in a SE5 with a substantial swell. The harbour sheltered us from the swell but the wind was still strong and would be beam on. A flotilla was arriving so inexperienced boats were milling around the entrance waiting to be called in by the leader. We bided our time till there was a gap and, went in for an approach. I always test the bow thruster as we are so dependent on it for manoeuvring in tight spots - and lucky I did. All power on the boat immediately went off. The engine kept running of course but instruments, thruster, windlass and even starter motor were dead! Luckily we were still outside the harbour and L went round in circles while I went below to fix it. It was the same problem we had had in Navarino Bay 4 months ago. Our Sterling shunt had gone open circuit. A good whack with a hammer cured it (at least temporarily) and in we went determined not to use the thruster just in case.
It wasn't easy as the quay was almost full except for one Italian who had moored diagonally across two spaces and one spot right on the outer edge of the mole opposite a stub mole making it difficult to place an anchor. They guy next door was very helpful as was Georgeos from the Taverna - we tied onto our neighbour while Georgo placed the anchor from his dinghy. All well although the anchor wasn't really holding well and we leaned on the boat next door all night. In the morning, I took the offending shunt out and gave it a really serious whacking to close the brass slot onto the shunt metal. I really must replace it this winter!
Kalamos town is very steep but a pleasant walk. A bakery, supermarket, butcher rewards the trip. Tavernas by the quay around the quay are also pleasant and reasonable (especially aforesaid, very enterprising Georgeo's). After a leisurely beer in lovely surroundings, we strollad back to Rosa and spotted a very unusual little sailing fishing boat. It would have been fascinating to see it set sail, but sadly there was no sign of activity while we were there.

We stayed one night. then pushed on to Kastros. What a lovely island! It has three good anchorages, several less good and a lovely harbour. We spent a night in the uninhabited NorthEast bay with good shelter and good holding on sandy patches. Lovely calm quiet night with a black sky full of stars above us and brilliant phosphorescence below. Next day we explored the other coves on the east coast. Many are reasonable spots but the far South East is really good shelter. Unfortunately it seems to be where all the large Italian power yachts go - there were at least 10 of them all line ashore with a few lonely sailing yachts dwarfed in between them. Not our scene. So we motored back to the one and only town.

We got a superb anchoring spot in beautifully clear turquoise water on good hard sand. So nice, we stayed for two days, dinghying into the town. It has a few reasonable tavernas including a spectacular bar in an old but still functional windmill on the point. There is also a small shop but that's it. No rubbish (by order),no water, etc. The town only has 35 winter inhabitants all over 50. Everything comes by boat. The olive presses have closed down so the olives rot on the trees - many of them spectacularly old. Apart from some fishing and a little horticulture for home consumption, there is only tourism and not a lot of that. Nevertheless, there seems to be a housing and construction boom with tastefully renovated and built properties - most I suspect holiday homes for rich mainlanders.

We celebrated L's birthday at Chef Johns - a brisk climb up the hill. Superb views, truly excellent service and my Beef Stifado was excellent. Unfortunately L's lamb was over salted which spoiled it a bit.

We were glad we stayed as John and Pam from Cosi dropped by for a chat in the morning. They had been in the harbour the night before but unfortunately we hadn't noticed them.
We took the afternoon wind over to Astakos (Lobster in Greek) on the mainland and stopped in an isolated bay just before it called Port Mitikas. Its large, reasonable depth and good holding. There's nobody living there - just a couple of campers on the beach at the head of the bay. The coast road runs around but its very high and you don't really notice it. Next morning we went into Astakos to do some shopping and pick up water. Pretty reasonable anchoring off the harbour - but great care needed to keep clear of the ferry berth - which is used at least twice a day with one visit in the dead of night. It's not at all obvious - just a slightly raised section of empty quay with some tyres tied below it. We went into the town by dinghy and started with the port police as I needed the DEKPA stamped. They were pleasant enough but the most officious we have ever seen in Greece. Demanded all the usual paperwork plus my certificates of competence and passports. Most unusual. Luckily they accepted the RYA certificates as I think my ICC is out of date!
The town is entirely Greek - little or no English spoken. It's small but has all the necessities - hardware/chandlers, butcher (excellent) fruit&vedge and a supermarket that concentrates on groceries and hardware rather than competing with all the other shops. The water man is very efficient and we filled up in no time after returning to Rosa then backing up to the quay.
We had intended to stick around for a couple of days but the wind changed unexpectedly and we had a good opportunity to get on South without burning lots of diesel.
And so to Nissos Petalas. We've been here before and its great. 100% shelter, loads of good holding and no habitation for miles. We'll stay here till Thursday and then take the promised wind to Missolonghi and then Navpaktos.